Italy - Puglia
If the Italian’s are known for anything other than their pasta and pizza, then it HAS to be for their crazy driving (or should I say reckless driving period). This proved to be half of the fun whilst exploring the towns and villages of Puglia. The bet part, a car is one of the only things that allows you to see this cultural district in prime perfection.
Ever heard the word Trulli or Trullo? You kind of feel like you’re in a cartoon movie or kids TV program when saying it. Unique and extremely sacred to the region of Alberobello are their traditional dwellings, called Trulli’s. Made from limestone (normally in large boulder form) found in neighbouring towns and fields. The rare form, characterised by their pyramid or dome style roofs and often all white except a dark corbelled roofing made from limestone slabs, dates back to the early 14th century. Many of the Trulli’s in Puglia, although their purpose may have been transformed and altered, was used as storing plots, shelters or small dwelling for families. To this day, this area is the only place left to inhabit and use traditional Trulli’s.
Stay in one, eat in one, shop in one and bath in one - their purpose is multifaceted. An amazing, secluded but blissful Trulli to stay in is the Trulli Casalina residence. The traditional, only newly renovated interiors, are positioned on a large olive grove belonging to the owners for 4 generations. Along with 1, 2 and 3 bedroom Trulli’s you can also choose to use the pool that over looks a valley with endless rolling hills covered with vineyards and farmlands.
One town, only about 10 minutes from Trulli Casalina, is the old town of Ostuni. Only your visual sightings of this town does it justice - an endless sea of white, covers sloping hills where a church marks the upper most point of the town. The town is made up of small streets, walking only, that seems to offer something new at every turn. The most attractive point of Ostuni (for shoppers) is their small vintage stores. Must visit (but you should email or call her first) is Modernari Art. The owner has a true passion for vintage glass, glasses, bags and jewellery. Close-by to this location is Osteria Monacelle offering a speciality of homemade pasta, specifically in the traditional style of this region. The must have is their tiramisu which will have you licking the plate for every last drop.
For another great town full of vintage stores, check out Cisternino. Look out for the blue door for one of the most eclectic but treasured vintage stores awaits (you know it’s part of the local stops because they literally have no store name). In this town, you will also find a restaurant called Osteria Bell’Italia. Hands down, one of the best meals we had in Italy was at this place. I highly suggest to book during the summer period (April - September) because it fills up very quickly.
The dining style of the Italian people is to be truely noted. Expect nothing to be open between 15 and 17.30… including restaurants. This is their siesta time and they take it very seriously. The streets will be empty, the restaurants deserted and shops hang their closed signs with pride. Lunch should be eaten between 12 and 15, with drinks and nibbles starting at 17.30. They eat dinner then, not until 21. Keep this in mind for reserving tables as you will stick out like a sore thumb trying to reserve for dinner at 19 (or maybe not even able to book).
On to Matera - voted as the cultural capital of the world in 2019. Why? The old city is known for the cave dwellings from the 13th century and these over looking the gorge or valley leading to the cluster of Matera’s stassi (cave dwellings). Matera is also associated or labeled by locals as being one of the poorest towns in Italy. It’s considered the third longest uninhabited region in the world, simply because there was not enough water or food for human survival.
We did do a walking tour of the stassis’s but I honestly wouldn’t recommend it. They do not show you anything extra than what you can walk to/in yourself and the guides are very hard to understand when they speak English so much of the information is lost in translation. To walk through the stassis’s is free and there is only a 2€ entry fee to walk into the old caves. You can also see how the modern world have morphed into the old caves in some boutique shops, like Anteprima.
Now back to the Trulli’s and for the final recommendation - Alberobello. This is really a truely Trulli town! Every shop, residence, restaurant, hotel and even toilet blocks share a common link - their facade being that of the traditional limestone dome style. Small streets run through and around this very small town and unfortunately, filled up of a lot of tourists and souvenir shops. Ignore all the craziness of the modern world and absorb the unique structures that share a small part of history - you can literally touch how those living thousands of years ago would have lived.
Fancy a truely great pizza whilst in the heart of the Italian country side? Dine at Quantobasta for a pizza only experience, but pizza they do deliver! Their menu includes two different styles of pizzas - winners and normal. The winners include one pizza that got voted the world’s best pizza. No matter what, they all use local produce that's fresh and unique to the region.
If you happen to be flying out of Rome or visiting, stop by Tivoli and explore the Villa d’Este. No words can describe or do these gardens justice - breathtaking views, peaceful, exquisite structure and design and historically significant.
This holiday is no lounge on the beach whilst sipping endless cocktails. It’s exploring the unique and distinct parts of Puglia and seeing first hand, parts of the Italian culture. Touch history, see transformations, dine with decadence and explore the Italian culture. Visit Puglia.
