Belgium - Brussels & Bruges

Well, you can imagine that an Aussie, based in Berlin, Germany where winter offers nothing more than dark, cold days and a whole lot of runny noses, wishes to escape heading south or at least not to any place reminiscent of such winter vibes. It’s very true, but when the invitation to explore what the infamous chocolate, beer and French fry capital of the world had to offer, there was no turning it down… especially with my favourite partner in crime.

Funnily enough, I had no expectations or preconceived ideas of Belgium. All I knew from word of mouth - chocolate shops lined main streets, alley ways and endless boulevards. Sounds like a heavenly destination? Also, thinking that I was heading slightly south towards an even touch more warmth, put a smile on my dial.

Of course with my amazing luck, when landing in Brussels there was an over head announcement “Welcome to Brussels, Belgium. Today we are experiencing an unexpected cold snap, breaking the dropping temperatures in November for 20 years…” Luckily I wore skins. Zip up, wrap around and slip those gloves on, let the adventures begin.

Staying in the amazing Hotel Indigo, which was previously the Hilton, located in the central area of Brussels Nord (North), it became clear that although I had no preconceived notions of Brussels, I certainly didn’t picture a large city built up of such high rises, personal wealth and flourishing social activity. I also didn’t picture the line of military with machine rifles patrolling areas at every turn. Hotel Indigo is perfectly placed being directly on the airport train line (tickets cost just over 8€). The hotel is also in the hub of must-see cultural sites as well as a thriving shopping vicinity. Your first contact with the ever-awaited chocolate houses begins now - you will find yourself, without even trying, surrounded by a copious amount of chocolate shops of all different shapes, quality and of course, cost. I highly suggest, if travelling to Bruges, to hold off on purchasing your years supply because the pot of gold sure does lie at the end of the rainbow. 

Nestled in and amongst the city commotion is the landmark statue - Manneken Pis. Not your typical cultural or religious tourist high point, in fact it has most people laughing. But yet, it still draws millions of people to Brussels every year. The little boy, whose dressed by an unknown individual or group on a regular basis, has a flowing fountain literally spirting out of his genitals. Told you… funny! Take a few snaps, cause the really unique thing about the Manneken Pis is that he may never be dressed in that exact outfit again, so really it’s a once in a life time experience no matter how many times you visit him.

After a little flânering, mosey on to a restaurant called Gus Brasserie. They are open for lunch and dinner - either way this location brings together the traditional tastes and flavours of Belgium with the culinary excellence of fine dining, in a deeply artistic fashion. To learn more about their culinary philosophy, and first hand photographic moments, head to the full article here.

If you are into vintage shopping, there are a number of stores along Avenue Louise. It turns out that this long 2.7km road is one of the most expensive streets in Brussels, both for real estate and shopping. I could lie and say I walked right past the designer collectable store called Louise Fifty Four but I won’t. 

After a shopping venture, a much needed drink is in order. Why settle for an ordinary drink when you can immerse yourself in a local Bruxelles establishment. L’archiduc opened in the early 1900s and has become home to many thriving jazz musicians. Every Saturday and Sunday evening they hold events with live jazz performances supporting local talent. If you are visiting outside of these two evenings, not to worry, you can still enjoy their range of exclusive drinks whilst lapping up their traditional Art Deco style interior. 

If you get time, check out OIL&VINEGAR located in the hub of the central shopping area (Rue Du Marché Aux Herbes). They also have a store in Bruges if you run out of time in Brussels. They have over 30 different oils, 20 different vinegars, unique range of pesto, dry dip bases and premium bread sticks - all of which are produced by products sourced from Italian farmers. Our top “must-trys” are the chocolate vinegar, roasted garlic dip and the truffle pesto Genovese. 

Next up; Bruges. Also known as Brugges, Brugex, Brugge, Brygga - different names, same place. One of the initial things you may notice in the centre of the town is the dates written on the exterior of a lot of the old stone buildings. The centre is known as the old town and most of the structures are from the 1400s (something pretty amazing for an Aussie!). One of the rare sights these days - there are no high rises. 

Historically speaking, Bruges, derived its name from the old Scandinavian word “Brygga” meaning harbour or mooring place. The canals that run through and around the old city (Zwin river) connects directly to the North Sea forming one of the first major international import and export docks. Cloth was the prevalent trading material, especially the Flemish cloth that was unique to the area (made in the nearby town of Ghent). 

Feel at ease, feel at home. With the population speaking a combination of French, Flemish and English, their presence in society (and to tourists) seems rather rumbled. Speaking with many of the Bruges locals, their personal loyalty and connection is to the Flemish dialect. They do not associate themselves with the French population because after all, Belgium is it’s own country now. The French language, on the other hand, is what appears the most - all menus, information boards, maps and guided tours are in French. The Flemish language is really only to be heard between locals in passing. The sense of community, cohort or being a society seems rigid in Brussels rather than in Bruges where the line between local, tourist, stranger and best friend merges in an almost uncanny way. Engage with the locals, especially in Bruges, because their sense of pride about their past carries into any conversation.

One of the nicest things to do in Bruges, that’s also completely free, is to walk along the canals no matter the time of year. They wind through and around the old town which means it’s a great way of seeing the town both from the outskirts a well as through small streets. When walking the outer canal of the town, take note of all the old windmills that line the paths; they all range in age but the oldest is dated 1770. 

Now for your cultural fix. Two must-sees; Our Lady Church and Belfry Tower. Our Lady Church dates back to the 13th, 14th and 15th century. It shows a remarkable form of artistic expression, giving homage and signs of wealth to the city and the Catholic Church. Inside, they also hold a small museum which is home to the world-famous statue “Madonna and Child” by Michelangelo. 

Tighten up those sneakers and enjoy the 300 steps up to the top of the Belfry Tower. Look over the spanning city in a 360 degree view whilst listening to the chiming bells above that ring every quarter hour. The stairs up are certainly not your modern-day spiral so this activity might not be suitable for very young children or the elderly - it’s two way traffic with hardly enough foot space or stair for one. This being said, the view, resonating sound and otherwise peaceful ambiance is truly remarkable. Take note when descending the stairs - there is a wooden door with a square glass window into a small room where, if you are lucky with timing, you may see the man himself playing the piano that connects to the bells. He changes the music every two years so you may never hear the same sounds twice as a tourist. 

For a gift to remember, there is none other than Pierre Marcolini. The chocolates here are all hand-made, artisanal and almost too good to eat. They are more on the expensive side but they capture the true essence of the Belgium love for their chocolate. Look out for the creative chocolate masterpieces - I’ll give you a hint, they are accentuated parts of the female body - because these are the perfect local, light hearted gift. Want to find out more about the process of making chocolate, it’s history and sneak a few samples along the way? The Choco Story offers all this and more. Tickets start from 9.50€ for adults and 5.50€ for children. This tour is more suited for children and their families.

As for dining in Bruges - make sure to book restaurants from Thursday until Sunday because, although there seems a lot of restaurants when moseying around, they get booked up fast! Bar’n serves up amazing cocktails for all those after something special and the location has such a warm vibe. Apart from indulging in all the Belgium street food, such as hot cacao, hot chips (plain or with a range of different toppings), waffles and beer get amongst their love of mussels (of course, served with fries). Perfect dish to warm you up after a morning of city navigating, stair climbing and shopping. 

Over your mundane weekend routine? Pack your weekend getaway backpack - all this and more is just a stone’s throw away. Entertain, excite, explore and adore… that’s a weekend away in Belgium.