Double Trouble Truffles
Month #3 with Amex DE for our 7 month series of #amexforfoodie series.
It’s all about truffles here this month! Let me show you my two favourite recipes using truffles that are time friendly, so in style and bold in flavour. We can show you how to incorporate truffles into your daily dining, using this diverse and unqiue ingredient to take your breakfast and dinner to the next level. Who said you can’t create show stopping, inspiring dishes for friends and family at home? Not us.
Truffles. Many people steer clear of them, many people are afraid of them but we should experiment, experience and try. They certainly are an ingredient that could be understand to be only for an “acquired taste” because of their potent flavour, delicate texture and slightly limited cooking potential. In saying this, the truffle is also a beautiful element in the culinary world that deserves all the focus and attention.
To give a quick rundown
There are two types of truffles. The white and black, available at different times of the year and during different seasons. The white truffle is understood to be the truffle foraged in the summer summer months where as the black truffle is found only during the cooler months. The white truffle is slightly less dominant than the black but both do pack a punch and often control the dish in terms of flavour and thus, focus. Both should be shaved with a truffle shaver (kind of similar to a potato peeler but please do not use this - the truffle peeler is designed to cut the thick bubbly skin but at the same time, thinly slice the very delicate flesh inside).
I got my hands on some black truffles from Italy (France and Italy are the major truffle suppliers in Europe but they can be found else where as well). Feel free to use the white truffles in these two recipes as well if you have access to those, especially if you make these at the end of July/August or beginning of September.
Things to keep in mind when;
Buying -
There are a few things to keep in mind when trying to obtain truffles. They are expensive but a small amount goes a long way. Their flavour is powerful, dominant and aromatic which means buying 50grams of truffles will last 4-6 dishes (mine actually lasted slightly more than this but it does depend on their potency). You should always try to buy as fresh as possible because once truffles are harvested, their flavour does begin to decrease right away. Best bet is to buy direct from a farmer or local distributor. If they are processed and bottled then shipped around, by the time they reach you, I would be amazed if they would have much flavour remaining.
Keeping -
If you cannot buy direct from a farmer or local distributor, buy truffles that are kept in olive oil. This preserves the flavour, freshness and allows the truffles to stay moist and marbled inside. You then can use the infused olive oil after the truffle is used which will obtain a gentle truffle flavour, perfect for salad dressings, drizzled over bakes or whisked into omelettes.
If you do buy a whole truffle and it doesn’t already come in olive oil, you can preserve the remaining of one (if it doesn't get eaten all at one sitting) in a small jar of olive oil. Keep the lid sealed tightly and place it in the fridge for up to 2-3 weeks. You will see a truffle when it goes off - this probably won’t happen in this 2-3 week period when stored in oil but the flavour will have reduced a lot in this time.
Handling -
The truffle is fragile in a way but only really once shaved. As a whole ball, the outer shell is thick, sturdy and has a bubbling appearance and texture. They do grow in the dirt after all. The interior is the soft and fragile part as it tears rather easily. Restaurants often use small culinary tweezers to handle the shaved truffle to place where desired without ripping. You can use your hands but do be gentle and keep in mind that they can be as strong as to flavour your finger tips (or where touched) if you will.
Pairing -
Fat. Truffles are paired best with fats like fatty oils, fatty flavours, ingredients that bleed a lot of fatty juices. They help to bring out their nutty/woody elements and create a well rounded but balanced mouthful.
English
Duck Fat Truffle French Style Scramble
Ingredients
2 tbsp + 2 tbsp duck fat (gee)
4 organic eggs
1x25 gram Truffle bulb
1 tbsp-fresh parsley, chopped
2 tbsp whole milk or cream
2 slices Sourdough bread
Method
Place the eggs (in their shell) and the whole truffle into a tightly sealed container and store in a dark, cool place for at least 24 hours but better when it is 48 hours. This will infuse the eggs with the truffle taste and smell in a very delicate way but this step is optional.
Chop up 1 quarter to half of the truffle and add it to a medium bowl. Add in the eggs, milk or cream, parsley and a pinch of sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Whisk well and set aside.
Heat a none stick pan with 2 tablespoons of gee and add the sourdough bread. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown then flip to repeat on the other side. Once both sides are golden, remove from the pan and leave to cool slightly.
In this same pan, add the other 2 tablespoons of gee on a very low heat and without letting it get hot, also add the egg mixture. Using a wooden spoon, gently stir around the eggs, never letting them sit - this will produce very soft curdles. Once the eggs turn from very runny to having soft ribbons throughout, the eggs are done (this does a take 6-8 minutes). Remove from the heat.
Cut a circle from the toasted sourdough (optional) and place on a plate. Top with the ribbony eggs and finish with shaved truffle slices. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper and your favourite relish.
Bacon & Truffle Risotto
Ingredients
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp canola or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, diced
3 medium garlic cloves, diced or crushed
1/2 cup dry white wine
100 grams bacon, roughly diced
1 cup arborio rice
1 tsp dried thyme
1.25 litres chicken stock
15 gram truffle, shaved
100 grams parmesan cheese, grated
Salt and pepper
Method
In a small pan, cook the bacon on medium heat until crispy - roughly 3-4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring the stock to a simmer in a large pot. At the same time, in a medium pot, heat the oil and butter together. Add the thyme, onion and garlic, cooking for 1-2 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and the rice, toasting in the butter. Once the butter has been absorbed by the rice, deglaze the pan with the wine, stirring continuously once added. You can add the brine of the parmesan here for extra flavour but is not necessary. Once the wine is absorbed, add one ladle of the hot stock into the rice and stir. Once absorbed, add the next ladle. Repeat until the stock is used up and the mixture is al-dente to taste and thick in texture.
Add the cheese and the chop half of the shaved truffles, adding them into the risotto as well. Stir through the bacon, reserving some to garnish.
Plate a spoonful into a shallow bowl or edged plate. Top with the remaining shaved truffle and bacon pieces.
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German
Entenfett-Trüffel Scramble nach französischer Art
Zutaten
2 EL + 2 EL Entenfett (gee)
4 Bio-Eier
1x25 Gramm Trüffelknollen
1 EL frische Petersilie, gehackt
2 EL Vollmilch oder Sahne
2 Scheiben Sauerteigbrot
Methode
Legen Sie die Eier (in ihrer Schale) und den ganzen Trüffel in einen fest verschlossenen Behälter und lagern Sie sie mindestens 24 Stunden an einem dunklen, kühlen Ort, besser jedoch 48 Stunden. Dadurch werden die Eier auf eine sehr zarte Weise mit dem Trüffelgeschmack und -geruch durchtränkt, aber dieser Schritt ist optional.
1 Viertel bis die Hälfte des Trüffels hacken und in eine mittelgroße Schüssel geben. Fügen Sie die Eier, Milch oder Sahne, Petersilie und eine Prise Meersalz und frischen schwarzen Pfeffer hinzu. Gut verquirlen und beiseite stellen.
Eine Pfanne ohne Stock mit 2 Esslöffeln Gee erhitzen und das Sauerteigbrot hinzufügen. 2-3 Minuten backen oder bis sie goldbraun sind, dann umdrehen, um auf der anderen Seite zu wiederholen. Sobald beide Seiten goldbraun sind, aus der Pfanne nehmen und etwas abkühlen lassen.
In dieselbe Pfanne die anderen 2 Esslöffel Gee bei sehr schwacher Hitze geben und ohne heiß werden zu lassen, auch die Eimischung hinzufügen. Rühren Sie die Eier mit einem Holzlöffel vorsichtig um und lassen Sie sie niemals sitzen - dies führt zu sehr weichen Gerinnseln. Sobald sich die Eier von sehr flüssig in weiche Bänder verwandeln, sind die Eier fertig (dies dauert 6-8 Minuten). Von der Hitze nehmen.
Schneiden Sie einen Kreis aus dem gerösteten Sauerteig (optional) und legen Sie ihn auf einen Teller. Mit den Bandeiern belegen und mit gehobelten Trüffelscheiben abschließen. Mit Meersalz und Pfeffer und Ihrem Lieblingsrelish bestreuen.
Speck-Trüffel-Risotto
Zutaten
2 EL Butter
1 EL Raps- oder Pflanzenöl
1 mittelgroße Zwiebel, gewürfelt
3 mittelgroße Knoblauchzehen, gewürfelt oder zerdrückt
1/2 Tasse trockener Weißwein
100 Gramm Speck, grob gewürfelt
1 Tasse Arborio-Reis
1 TL getrockneter Thymian
1,25 Liter Hühnerbrühe
15 Gramm Trüffel, rasiert
100 Gramm Parmesankäse, gerieben
Salz und Pfeffer
Methode
Den Speck in einer kleinen Pfanne bei mittlerer Hitze knusprig braten – etwa 3-4 Minuten. Vom Herd nehmen und beiseite stellen.
Bringen Sie die Brühe in einem großen Topf zum Köcheln. Gleichzeitig in einem mittelgroßen Topf das Öl und die Butter zusammen erhitzen. Thymian, Zwiebel und Knoblauch dazugeben und 1-2 Minuten kochen lassen. Eine Prise Salz und den Reis hinzufügen und in der Butter anrösten. Sobald die Butter vom Reis aufgenommen wurde, die Pfanne mit dem Wein ablöschen und dabei ständig umrühren. Sie können hier die Salzlake des Parmesans für zusätzlichen Geschmack hinzufügen, ist aber nicht notwendig. Sobald der Wein aufgesogen ist, eine Schöpfkelle der heißen Brühe in den Reis geben und umrühren. Nach der Aufnahme die nächste Schöpfkelle hinzufügen. Wiederholen, bis die Brühe aufgebraucht ist und die Mischung nach Geschmack bissfest und dickflüssig ist.
Den Käse und die Hälfte der geraspelten Trüffel hacken und ebenfalls in das Risotto geben. Durch den Speck rühren, etwas zum Garnieren aufbewahren.
Einen Löffel in eine flache Schüssel oder einen kantigen Teller geben. Mit den restlichen gehobelten Trüffel- und Speckstücken belegen.
